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BARBARIAN DAYS - A SURFING LIFE BARBARIAN DAYS - A SURFING LIFE
BARBARIAN DAYS - A SURFING LIFE BARBARIAN DAYS - A SURFING LIFE

BARBARIAN DAYS - A SURFING LIFE

À propos

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

Rayons : Littérature générale > Biographie / Témoignage littéraire > Autobiographie / Mémoires / Journal intime

  • EAN

    9781472151414

  • Disponibilité

    Épuisé

  • Longueur

    20 cm

  • Largeur

    13 cm

  • Épaisseur

    3.2 cm

  • Poids

    403 g

  • Distributeur

    Olf

  • Support principal

    Poche

empty